looking for sunlight


Sometimes, we are like the blind, looking for sunlight. We wouldn’t know it if we stumbled upon it. The search for meaning. Scorpion Bay. The days start overcast and damp. Not much moves faster than a stand still. Time doesn’t exist. In the moment. We live for one reason. To get in and become one with the ocean. The surf rolls in and spreads across the bay in long undulating lines… crystal perfection.



Lucia, Brian and Tony spent a fair amount of yesterday in the water. I think we were all in at least three times. Lucia rode some super long waves across the bay as did Brian. TA held third point most of the morning virtually alone and blasted some quick rides down the line.



This morning, I was first in the water followed shortly after by TA. For awhile, we had the point to ourselves. I paddled hard and caught a few, stood up and fell. I moved further outside. I saw TA way out… paddling. One big wave grew dark and rolled toward me. It spilled across nearby and broke. I turned and paddled, was picked up and stood on it. I officially rode my first wave.



TA blew past me, trimming down the line. We came into camp afterwards and spent a quiet breakfast in camp as the sunlight slowly warmed our backs. Thank you to Lucia for the images. Skate… and surf.  Ozzie



4 thoughts on “looking for sunlight

  1. Stoked for you, Ozzie. I will hit the road and head for the Basque Country in just a couple of hours. Waves and pools….can`t wait.

  2. hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
    I can’t tell you how MUCH i’d like to be there with you, for now I’ll just read and look and not try and hold it against you! hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

  3. Stoked! Your writing applied to another substrate is just as poetically appropriate & appealing. Surprised PK hadn’t forced the ocean & element of water on you before.

  4. It’s said in the surf world ” you shoulda been here” appears to be true

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